What To Do If
Your Dog Has Separation Anxiety
- For a minor
separation anxiety problem, the following techniques may be helpful by
themselves. For more severe problems, these techniques should be used
along with the desensitization process described in the next section.
- Keep arrivals and
departures low-key. For example, when you arrive home, ignore your dog for
the first few minutes, then calmly pet him.
- Leave your dog with
an article of clothing that smells like you, an old tee shirt that you’ve
slept in recently, for example.
- Establish a "safety
cue"--a word or action that you use every time you leave
that tells your dog you’ll be back. Dogs usually learn to associate
certain cues with short absences by their owners. For example, when you
take out the garbage, your dog knows you come right back and doesn't
become anxious. Therefore, it’s helpful to associate a safety cue with
your practice departures and short-duration absences.
- Some examples of safety
cues are: a playing radio; a playing television; a bone; or a toy (one
that doesn’t have dangerous fillings and can’t be torn into pieces). Use
your safety cue during practice sessions, but don’t present your dog with
the safety cue when you leave for a period of time longer than he can
tolerate or the value of the safety cue will be lost. Leaving a radio on
to provide company for your dog isn’t particularly useful by itself, but a
playing radio may work if you’ve used it consistently as a safety cue in
your practice sessions. If your dog engages in destructive chewing as part
of his separation distress, offering him a chewing item as a safety cue is
a good idea. Very hard rubber toys that can be stuffed with treats and
Nylabone-like products are good choices.
Desensitization Techniques For More Severe Cases Of Separation Anxiety
The primary treatment for
more severe cases of separation anxiety is a systematic process of getting
your dog used to being alone. You must teach your dog to remain calm during
"practice" departures and short absences.
We recommend the
following procedure:
- Begin by engaging in
your normal departure activities (getting your keys, putting on your
coat), then sit back down. Repeat this step until your dog shows no
distress in response to your activities.
- Next, engage in your
normal departure activities and go to the door and open it,
then sit back down.
- Next, step
outside the door, leaving the door open, then return.
- Finally, step
outside, close the door, then immediately return. Slowly get your
dog accustomed to being alone with the door closed between you for several
seconds.
- Proceed very
gradually from step to step, repeating each step until your dog shows no
signs of distress (the number of repetitions will vary depending on the
severity of the problem). If at any time in this process your actions
produce an anxiety response in your dog, you’ve proceeded too fast. Return
to an earlier step in the process and practice this step until the dog
shows no distress response, then proceed to the next step.
- When your dog is
tolerating your being on the other side of the door for several seconds,
begin short-duration absences. This step involves giving the dog a verbal
cue (for example, "I’ll be back.'), leaving and then returning within a
minute. Your return must be low-key: either ignore your dog or greet him
quietly and calmly. If he shows no signs of distress, repeat the exercise.
If he appears anxious, wait until he relaxes to repeat the exercise.
Gradually increase the length of time you’re gone.
- Practice as many
absences as possible that last less than ten minutes. You can do many
departures within one session if your dog relaxes sufficiently between
departures. You should also scatter practice departures and short-duration
absences throughout the day.
- Once your dog can handle
short absences (30 to 90 minutes), he’ll usually be able to handle longer
intervals alone and you won’t have to work up to all-day absences minute
by minute. The hard part is at the beginning, but the job gets easier as
you go along. Nevertheless, you must go slowly at first. How long it takes
to condition your dog to being alone depends on the severity of his
problem.
Teaching The
Sit-Stay And Down-Stay
Practice sit-stay or down-stay exercises using
positive reinforcement. Never punish your dog during these training
sessions. Gradually increase the distance you move away from your dog. Your
goal is to be able to move briefly out of your dog's sight while he remains
in the "stay" position. The point is to teach him that he can remain calmly
and happily in one place while you go to another. As you progress, you can
do this during the course of your normal daily activities. For example, if
you’re watching television with your dog by your side and you get up for a
snack, tell him to stay, and leave the room. When you come back, give him a
treat or quietly praise him.
Interim
Solutions
Because the above-described treatments can take a
while, and because a dog with separation anxiety can do serious damage to
himself and/or your home in the interim, some of the following suggestions
may be helpful in dealing with the problems in the short term:
- Consult your veterinarian
about the possibility of drug therapy. A good anti-anxiety drug should not
sedate your dog, but simply reduce his anxiety while you’re gone. Such
medication is a temporary measure and should be used in conjunction
with behavior modification techniques.
- Take your dog to a dog day
care facility or boarding kennel.
- Leave your dog with a
friend, family member or neighbor.
- Take your dog to work with
you, even for half a day, if possible.
What Won’t Help A
Separation Anxiety Problem
- Punishment is not an
effective way to treat separation anxiety. In fact, if you punish your dog
after you return home it may actually increase his separation anxiety.
- Getting another pet.
This usually doesn’t help an anxious dog as his anxiety is the result of
his separation from you, his person, not merely the result of being alone.
- Crating your dog.
Your dog will still engage in anxiety responses in the crate. He may
urinate, defecate, howl or even injure himself in an attempt to escape
from the crate.
- Leave the radio on
(unless the radio is used as a "safety cue" - see above).
- Obedience school. While
obedience training is always a good idea, it won’t directly help a
separation anxiety problem. Separation anxiety is not the result of
disobedience or lack of training, it’s a panic response.
|